Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Hearst Castle: La Cuesta Encantada



Approximately halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco (4 hours) on Highway 1 in the California Central Coast, lies Hearst Castle, the legendary estate built by newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst (1863-1951).  His father, George Hearst, a skilled miner and geologist from Missouri, moved to California in the mid-1800's to mine, and in 1865 purchased the property as a cattle and horse ranch.  One hundred and fifty years later, it is still a cattle ranch, breeding Black and Red Angus, as well as a state historical monument that reveals the life of one of America's most successful businessmen of the 20th century.

In 1919, when William (an only child) was 56, he inherited the property, which had grown to encompass 250,000 acres.  During his childhood, the family often spent time at the ranch camping in tents on the hill where the estate now stands.  His initial idea was to build " a little something", a bungalow (of sorts) as he was tired and too old for camping.  The architect WRH chose was Julia Morgan, who not only had a civil engineering background from Berkley, but also the distinction of being the first woman to graduate from the École des Beaux Arts in Paris.  Construction continued through 1947 when WRH, due to health reasons, moved to Beverly Hills, and the castle was never completed. 

The area of the main house, or Casa Grande, exceeds 60,000 square feet, with the guesthouses adding another 30,000 square feet of living space.  As a result of the length of construction and the constant change of plans, the main building itself is a mix of different architectural styles, the main style being Spanish Revival.  WRH amassed a personal collection of ancient art, furniture, sculptures, and other relics, which gives you a sense of touring a museum. (In fact, I read an interesting blurb on the Hearts Collection website that, at the time of his death, it is said his estate had accounted for about a quarter of the world's art market activity.)  His notable parties with the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Greta Garbo and Clark Gable, as well as his relationship with his mistress, actress Marion Davies, lend an air of mystique to the setting.

Tours start at the Visitor Center where you will take a bus ride 5 miles up a windy road and climb 1,600 feet to the "cuesta encantada", or enchanted hill.  The web site details the different tours available, from the Grand Rooms Tour, to the Upstairs Suites, Cottages and Kitchen, and Evening Tours.  Whichever tour you choose, it is best to reserve tickets ahead of time as they can sell out quickly.  At the conclusion of each tour, you are encouraged to explore the gardens, the Neptune Pool and the indoor Roman Pool, before taking the bus back down the hill (more harrowing than the ride up).   

We signed up for two tours that day, each 45 minutes long.  The first of which was the Grand Rooms Tour, and includes the Assembly Room, the Refectory, the Billiard Room and the Theater.


Casa Grande is a mix of architectural styles
The twin cupolas are said to have been modeled after a Spanish cathedral
Detail of the gothic entrance to the castle
WRH called the dining hall the Refectory, after the word for a monastery's dining hall


The high ceilings, flags and tapestries transport you to the Middle Ages 


The table is set to WRH's liking, replete with ketchup and mustard bottles

Real blue willow china is the same dinnerware they had used for camping

The billiard room was one of my favorites

The 15th century Spanish ceiling recently underwent a $1 million renovation

Next was the Upstairs Suites Tour, including the Doge's Suite, the Main Library, Heart's private suite which includes the Gothic Room, Marion Davies Room (and closet...not as big as one would think), and the Duplex Bedrooms.  The Doge's Suite was very grand, with beautiful Scalamandré silk walls, but what caught my eye was the Main Library and the Gothic Suite.  Standing in the Main Library, you are surrounded by a collection of 4,100 books (many 1st edition) and 115 pieces of Greek pottery from the 5th and 6th century B.C.  It was in the Gothic Suite that WRH previewed his newspapers every night before printing. The concrete arches in the suite were decorated by Camille Solon in 1934-35, and the Spanish ceiling dates from the early 1400s.

The Main Library: per the tour guide, the ceiling was purchased from the Stanford White estate

The Gothic Suite in WRH's private suite
 
A few of his first edition books
The details everywhere were stunning, décor...
...the pottery...
...the tapestries...
...and the vistas
The famous Neptune pool was drained due to the current drought
And the Roman Pool with its exquisite mosaic tiles did not disappoint


I love the marble ladder

A visit to Heart Castle is a doable day trip from Santa Barbara or Paso Robles.  It was a stopping point for us on our way up Highway 1 to Big Sur, and specifically the Post Ranch Inn....I cannot wait to show you those pics.  In the meantime, Happy Monday!

xo M

Hearst Castle
750 Hearst Castle Rd
San Simeon, CA  93452
800-444-4445
www.hearstcastle.org


All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com

Monday, March 2, 2015

A Brief Intermezzo


While culling through my 100+ photos of our next destination, Hearst Castle, I would be remiss if I didn't mention a couple of things we did in between our visit to Los Angeles and our arrival at San Simeon.

Lunch at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bistro next to our hotel, the Montage BH

At the Montage Beverly Hills, a performance by The Aqualillies synchronized swimmers

Macaroons from Bottega Louie in downtown LA

Bottega Louie's beautiful gift boxes

The pastries are delectable

If you are lucky, you may bump into one of LA's colorful characters

Beautifully plated uni at the Michelin 2 starred restaurant, Providence, on Melrose Ave

Providence, known as LA's best seafood restaurant, serves a phenomenal striped bass

A stop on 101 in Paso Robles at Denner Vineyards

A license plate of a limo I saw in the Denner parking lot that made me smile
The Central Coast area of Paso Robles is known for producing intense Syrahs






Bouchon 
235 North Cañon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA  90210 
310-271-9910
http://www.thomaskeller.com/beverly-hills-california/bouchon-beverly-hills

Montage Beverly Hills
225 North Cañon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA  90210
310-860-7801
http://www.montagehotels.com
 
Bottega Louie
700 South Grand
Los Angeles, CA
213-802-1470
http://www.bottegalouie.com

Providence
5955 Melrose Ave
Los Angeles, CA  90038
323-460-4170
http://providencela.com 

Denner Vineyards
5414 Vineyard Drive
Paso Robles, CA  93466
850-239-4287
http://www.dennervineyards.com


I will have my post from Hearst Castle ready for the coming weekend, so check back soon!
xo M


All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com. 

Thursday, February 19, 2015

LA's Grand Central Market



On a corporate scavenger hunt through the streets of downtown Los Angeles, chasing our clues from the public library to Disney Concert Hall, one of our stops led us to The Grand Central Market.  Opened in 1917, Grand Central Market is a 30,000 square foot arcade whose mission is to celebrate the cuisines and culture of Los Angeles.  The space houses over 30 vendors, with everything from a coffee shop, to an oyster bar, to a pupusería.  We were intrigued by one vender with a rather unappetizing, and slightly disconcerting, name of Eggslut that had an unusually long line.  What on earth was everyone waiting for in this interminable line?  And was it worth it?  I had to return to check it out, so return we did the following morning.

Wandering around the Grand Central Market is a food lover's paradise...Bento Ya Japanese Cuisine, Berlin Currywurst, McConnell's Fine Ice Cream (from Santa Barbara!), and Horse Thief BBQ, just to name a few.  This was one occasion where I wished I were part cow so that I could have 4 stomachs: one for tacos, one for cheese, one for Chinese noodles, and one for Eggslut sandwiches.  I made a pretty good effort with just one stomach (minus the noodles...they just wouldn't fit).






And at stall D-10, on the Broadway Street side, a bright neon sign that simply reads "Eggslut".  Eggslut is the brainchild of Chef Alvin Cailan, an Oregon Culinary Institute grad, whose love of the egg inspired him, in 2011, to provide an "eggstraordinary" culinary experience to diners all day long.



The problem was the line...it was super long.  What to do while we wait?  Turned out it was pretty fun.  We took turns walking around and tasting what other vendors had to offer, as well as making friends with others in line (a shout-out to the nice rep from KeVita probiotic drinks...Mango Coconut is my fave...found at Whole Foods). 

The line for Eggslut weaved in and around

We bought some cheese from DTLA Cheese

Tasted kombucha teas at Better Booch

Sipped on juices from Press Brothers Juicery

Ordered some carnitas at Las Morelianas from a very jolly fellow

Amazing carnitas...must order with cuerito and add the red salsa

The counter at Eggslut

After 45 minutes, we made it to the counter at Eggslut.  What to order?  I threw out the question on Instagram and, based on the replies, decided on the Fairfax, the Bacon Egg & Cheese, and the Slut (had to because of the name).  Hubby's belly was full of tacos, but I told him we had to do it, you know, in the name of research....dieting will come later.

The menu

The kitchen

The Fairfax

The Fairfax sandwich has soft scrambled eggs with chives, cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and Sriracha mayo on a warm brioche bun.  The brioche buns are made fresh daily by a bakery in Arcadia, CA, and are melt-in-your-mouth delicious.  The Fairfax as a whole was so flavorful and soft, you almost didn't have to chew.  Definitely comfort food at its finest. 

Another shot of the Fairfax sandwich

The Bacon, Egg & Cheese includes an over-medium egg with cheddar cheese, hardwood smoked bacon and chipotle ketchup on a brioche bun.  A little more chewing involved, but delicious nonetheless.


Bacon, Egg & Cheese


And when we thought our stomachs couldn't handle it any longer...we found the room to squeeze in the Slut.  OK, so the name may be a bit off-putting, but many in line had told me it was their favorite.  A coddled egg that has been cooked in a jar, on top of mashed potatoes, the Slut can be served with a baguette, or with a salad, for the wheat-free set.  When I return, and I will return, I will order this with a salad (while I am taking bites off of Hubby's egg sandwich), for the express purpose of leaving room to try other delicacies in the market.   

The Slut


So, bottom line: run, don't walk to LA's Grand Central Market (and actually, as we found out, you can take the subway...did you know that LA has a subway?).  There is something for everyone there...a culinary wonderland.

LA's Grand Central Market
Hours: Sun - Weds 8AM - 6PM, Thurs - Sat 8AM - 9PM
317 S. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90013
TEL (213) 624-2378
FAX (213) 624-9496

www.grandcentralmarket.com  

Have a very merry weekend!
xo M

All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com, and yes, all opinions are mine.