Sedona

 
What do you think

Of Arizona

Is it just the desert wind

Or a delta flood plain valley

Where the towering cactus live?

It's the Call of the Canyon

Bell Rock, Cathedral, Mitten Ridge

It's Sedona, Sedona

Where the lovin' people live

Lyrics by Donna Loren

Sedona is an easy 115-mile drive up I-17 north of Phoenix.  My earliest memories of Sedona are from graduate school, when we would just pop up there for the day to sample margaritas and cactus fries.  Later in life, it has become a place we go to celebrate anniversaries or Valentine's Day.  There are many lovely places to stay, including the most famous, which are the Enchantment Resort, with the relaxing Mii Amo spa, and the L'Auberge de Sedona, situated right in the heart of Sedona on Oak Creek.  This trip, however, was planned as a spur-of-the-moment girls trip (me and my two girls, that is), and we had two last minute add-ons which ended up driving the direction of our trip.

"Please take us with you to Sedona, Mama"

So this was the pet-friendly version of a Sedona trip.  They are good travelers and are just happy to be included.  This was going to be easy.  I booked a room at the Best Western Plus Inn of Sedona on Highway 89, which is a pet-friendly hotel that boasts some of the best views in Sedona.  It was very comfortable, and, yes, had wonderful views.

I felt like I had to start the weekend off with a margarita at Elote Cafe.  A friend of mine gave me the Elote Cafe Cookbook some years ago, and every since, the restaurant is a go-to for me in Sedona.  The cuisine of Chef Jeff Smedstad is inspired by his travels around Mexico.  Having spent a good amount of time traveling and taking cooking lessons in Mexico, I find his menu refreshing and muy delicioso.  This trip I tried the Ahi Tuna Asado while my daughter ordered the Chile Verde Pork Tamale.  Be sure to try the namesake dish of Elote, fire roasted corn with spicy mayo, lime and cotija cheese.  Wash it all down with a Jeff's Margarita made with one of my favorite tequilas, Don Julio.  (You can find the Elote Cafe Cookbook on either Amazon.com or on the cafe's website, listed below.) 

Grilled Hawaiian Tuna with Chile Verde Sauce and Roasted Corn Salsa

 

Poblano Chile Braised Pork Shoulder Tamale

In the morning we meandered back up the highway to the town of Oak Creek to try the Red Rock Cafe, which locals have said has wonderful blue corn huevos rancheros.  I couldn't dream of a better meal to get me ready for a day of hiking.  It is located in a nondescript strip mall, and once inside is an inviting atmosphere surrounded by paintings of the scenery of Sedona done by local artists.  Other house specialties include Southwest Chicken Fried Steak and Cowboy Style Benedict, poached eggs served atop biscuits and sausage and covered with gravy.  Breakfast is served until 3 pm for those of you who like to sleep in.

Blue Corn Huevos Rancheros

Painting of Cathedral Rock

Interior of Red Rock Cafe

I chose a hike that the kids and dogs could handle.  There is a website, www.greatsedonahikes.com, that I used to find the Little Horse Trail, billed as one of the most scenic hikes in the area.  It is located right off Highway 179 in between the Village of Oak Creek and Sedona.  Described as a moderate hike of 4 miles round trip, it was easy enough for anyone in relatively healthy shape to enjoy.  It is level with very little altitude gain. 

Our destination was to the right of the two spires

All the trails are well marked

Very cool house as seen from the trail

Getting closer...

...almost there...

Yeah!

In case you were wondering, the red dust is a bear to wash off

Heading back to the car...can you believe those views!

Chapel of the Holy Cross, as seen from the Little Horse Trail

A trip to Sedona is a treat in and of itself, but if you have the time, swing by the old mining town of Jerome on the way back to Phoenix.  Even if you only have an hour to spare, that is a nice amount of time to get an introduction to this historic copper mining town.  Now a tourist and artist community, Jerome has a population of 450, down from 15,000 in the 1920's when the nearby mine was producing 3 million pounds of copper per month.  The town is perched at 5,200 on the side of a mountain, and has incredible views.  Popular attractions include the Jerome Historical Society Mine Museum and the Sliding Jail, the former jail that slid 225 feet downhill due to settling issues.  We watched a glass blowing exhibition and had a quick lunch of pizza on the patio of Grapes Restaurant before heading back home.  All in all, a successful weekend.

From Jerome, a view of the San Francisco Peaks of Northern AZ

Best Western Plus Inn of Sedona

1200 Arizona 89A

Sedona, AZ  86336

928-282-3072

www.bestwestern.com/Sedona 

Elote Cafe

771 State Route 179

Sedona, AZ  

928-203-0105

www.elotecafe.com 

Elote does not take reservations...it is first-come-first-serve

The Red Rock Cafe

100 Verde Valley School Rd, Ste 107

928-284-1441

www.redrockcafe.wordpress.com 

Grapes Restaurant

111 Main St, Jerome, AZ 

928-639-8477

www.grapesjerome.com 

Reflections

I wrote this post on my iPhone from the top of Camelback Mountain today.  I had to get out of the house and clear my head.  I dropped everything I "had" to do, and laced up my trail runners.  In a very short period of time, I was scrambling over boulders with my heart beating out of my chest.  At the top, I was rewarded with the extraordinary beauty of the valley below and a certain sense of accomplishment.  As I sat at the top reflecting on the recent loss of another dear family member, I was reminded of why I started writing this blog almost a year ago today.  To let go of sadness and grief and to share what I find joyful in life.  I have to be honest, however, that it is not always easy.  Life is full of trials and tribulations, and just when I think I have the hang of it, I find myself knocked down.  The hard part is wiping off the dirt and getting back up.  To use an allegory, last week, I was riding a very large 17-hand Warmblood that spooked at something in the corner of the ring and sent me flying into the dirt (I literally had dirt in my eyelashes and between my teeth).  The instructor asked me to get back on and take one more jump.  I didn't hesitate, but as I was lifted back onto the saddle, a large part of my conscience was screaming at me to reconsider.  Nonetheless, I collected my horse, centered him towards the jump, and we went soaring beautifully over the jump.  It was more exhilarating because of the fall.  I write it down so I won't forget this lesson.  I am, as ever, thankful for the strength of my incredible family and of the everlasting support of my friends.  And I vow never, ever, to lose my sense of humor...ever.  
xoxo M

  

Hill Country Gemütlichkeit

Fredericksburg, Texas, is located in the Texas Hill Country about 70 miles north/northwest of San Antonio.  It was founded in 1846 by 120 German immigrants and named after Prince Frederick of Prussia.  Each German settler was sold a plot of land in town and 10 acres in the vicinity in exchange for settlement on the edge of the Comanchería, an area occupied by the fierce and brutal Comanche Indian tribe.  German was the main language of Fredericksburg until the 1940's, and is still used among the old families.  My grandfather, Cy Heard, loved this part of Texas, and used it as a base for his cattle operation.  As such, my mother, and later, all five of us kids, spent a good deal of our formative years here.  It is a wonderful part of the world, imbued with a strong sense of tradition, family values and patriotism.  

Many of the buildings are constructed using the locally quarried limestone

One of Mom's passions was restoration, and she threw her heart into the restoration of some of Fredericksburg's historical buildings.  For her first venture, she bought a Sunday House on Main Street.  Sunday Houses are small, in-town homes that the early German settlers used when they traveled from the farms outside of town to attend church on the weekends.  Around Christmastime, Mom loved to open the Sunday House to the public during the Holiday Home Tour.  She had it filled with antique furniture, toys and quilts, and dressed us up in dirndls (women) and lederhosen (men) for the full effect.

A sketch I have of the Loeffler Weber Haus

For another project, she bought two restaurants on Main Street, The Gallery and Domino Parlor, and and ran them for approximately 5 years.  The Gallery was in a three story building and the Domino Parlor was an adjacent casual dining establishment with a Biergarten.  Imagine my thrill when I heard that the building in which the Gallery was located has recently been lovingly renovated and reopened under the name Vaudeville.
As you enter off the street, the first floor features a home furnishings store, with a tasteful and fresh mix of styles.  The bistro-style café is located downstairs and was very warm and inviting on a cold, rainy day.  The lunch menu is small but inventive, and changes seasonally.  They offered a choice of two salads, four sandwiches, a soup du jour, a quiche du jour, cheese and charcuterie plates, antipasto platters, and a daily special.  We were seated at a table surrounded by a selection of lovely vinos.  We settled in by ordering some Côtes du Rhône with a few cheese and charcuterie plates.  Hubby and I split the Marinated Chicken Confit Salad and the Venison Reuben on Marble Rye.  We were spoiled by co-owner Richard Boprae, who made sure our glasses were never empty.  Richard is a French Canadian who shares my love (and taste) for cheese and wine.  He told me that the wine he sells in their market is a selection of his favorites, which happens to include a bottle of Lange Twins Midnight Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  Lange Twins is a fifth generation family farm and winery out of Lodi, California, whose President, Marissa Lange, is a good friend.  So, Marissa, now you know you have some fans down in the Hill Country!      

The bistro can accommodate large groups

Wine selections in the market

The home furnishings store on the 1st floor

On Monday nights, Vaudeville offers a Supper Club, a three course pre-fixe menu with wine pairings.  In addition, there is a gallery showcasing contemporary art.  There is also a courtyard that is designated for special events and private functions.  In short, Vaudeville is a unique experience to be found in the Texas Hill Country: a perfect mix of shopping, browsing, and - to tie in to my Enchanted Rock post (see Utterly Enchanting) - eating while enjoying the beauty of the surrounding countryside.

Should you find yourself in the mood for some German food, a long-time favorite of ours is the Altdorf.  I love to sit on the patio drinking a Paulaner Hefe-Weizen beer, then ordering first a sausage sampler (from the local smokehouse, Opa's), then the Red Baron sandwich (Swiss cheese melted over corned beef with onion, red cabbage and mustard), and for the finale, Mississippi Mud Pie.  Yum, yum, eat 'em up.

Should you find yourself in the mood for BBQ, scoot on over to Llano to check out Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que.  This place first piqued my interest when I heard that some people (evidently those who are pilots and have access to small planes) actually fly here from Austin (of all foodie places!) for BBQ.  I have only been here once, but it was worth the drive.  We tried as much as we could and enjoyed every bite:  the brisket, the giant pork chop, the smoked turkey and the rib eye.  Don't forget about the beans.  In my not-so-humble opinion, they are always an integral part of any BBQ experience.  I hope this gets y'all in the mood for some serious eatin'.

It is a true Texas experience to stand over a large smoker to pick out your meal

  
As a parting gift, I wanted to share with you one of our family Christmas cards that shows you that, notwithstanding the fact that I was 39 at the time, my mother still loved dressing us up in dirndls and lederhosen.  What is remarkable about this photo, is that all the clothes we are wearing came from her collection of German/Austrian clothes.  I now have a few of her beautiful dirndls in my closet, but cannot fit into them as Mom was so tiny.  I wonder if there is such a thing as a dirndl expander?  If you happen to know, drop me a line!  Until then, Malzeit!

"In München steht ein Hofbräuhaus..."

         

Vaudeville
230 East Main St, Fredericksburg
Bistro Hours Wed-Mon 8 am - 6 pm and Saturdays until 9 pm
Monday Night Supper Club 6:30 - 9:30 pm by Reservation
www.vaudeville-living.com 

Altdorf Biergarten
301 West Main St, Fredericksburg
Closed Tuesday
830-997-7865
www.altdorfbiergarten-fbg.com 

Cooper's BBQ
604 W. Young St, Llano
877-533-5553 (They take online orders)
www.coopersbbqllano.com   
Just to hear the Cooper's BBQ jingle, you have to visit their website

All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com.  I am sorry I do not have the information on artist of the sketch of the Loeffler Weber Haus.

Utterly Enchanting

As I was scrolling through Pinterest the other day, I stumbled upon an article in the January 2013 edition of San Antonio magazine stating "52 Things Every San Antonian Must Do".  Topping this list at #1 is to climb Enchanted Rock.  Located approximately halfway between Fredericksburg and Llano, Texas, off of Ranch Road 965, Enchanted Rock is a massive pink granite formation rising 425 feet and spanning 640 acres.  American Indian legends and folklore abound with tales of this mythical rock, so named for its spiritual powers.  My favorite of which is that anyone who spends the night on the rock shall become invisible.  While my goal was not to become invisible, I set out with Hubby and Big Sis' to perhaps make a couple of pounds become invisible.  It was a glorious crisp Hill Country morning.

The Summit Trail is the most popular hiking path and is 6/10 of a mile

These vernal pools at the summit apparently contain fragile invertebrate fairy shrimp (what's that?)

At the summit

Rock formations

The 4 mile loop trail is lovely

Within the Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, in addition to hiking, are other activities including caving, rock climbing, trail running, picnicking, camping and birding.  I would imagine that the most colorful time to go would be in the spring, when the bluebonnets and Indian paint brushes are in bloom.  Nonetheless, it is apparently a pilgrimage every San Antonian must do.  I really cannot believe it took me 43 years to do it.  Should you find your tummy rumbling after all this activity, stay tuned and I will follow up with some recommendations on places to eat in the Fredericksburg area of the Hill Country.  Auf Wiedersehen!

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
16710 Ranch Rd 965
Fredericksburg, TX  78624
830-685-3636
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/enchanted-rock

Chihuly in the Garden

Hubby and I spent a date night at the Desert Botanical Garden to see Las Noches de las Luminarias during the Chihuly in the Garden exhibit.  American glass sculptor Dale Chilhuly has paired with the Desert Botanical Garden for a second time to display his unique works of blown glass art.  The Chihuly exhibit runs through May 18, 2014, and features 21 stunning sculptures specially selected and placed throughout the Garden. 

These "Desert Towers" sculptures at the entrance of the garden resemble the surrounding yuccas.  They are permanent sculptures from the first Chihuly in the Garden exhibit five years ago. 
 

Desert Tower

Reminds me of a sea urchin

For 31 nights during the holiday season, the Garden presents Las Noches de las Luminarias.  During each night of the Luminaria, approximately 8,000 bags filled with candles line the pathways of the Garden, guiding the visitors from one lit saguaro to another.  Along the pathways, you can encounter groups of carolers, hand bell ringers, Apache story tellers, and mariachi bands.  Grab a cup of hot cider (how I would have loved a cup of glühwien!) and jump right on in.  The last night for the Luminaria is December 31st.  

The art of blown glass

This Desert Tower was close to 30 feet tall

This sculpture was in a boat floating on the water

Could you even imagine what the installation of this exhibit was like?

This was our favorite

It is almost reminiscent of a sea anemone

Cardón Cactus

Desert Botanical Garden

1201 N. Galvin Parkway, Phoenix  85008

480-481-8188

Tickets for Chihuly in the Garden Event: 

$22 for adults, $12 for students

Children under 3 are free of charge

All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com.