Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Hill Country Gemütlichkeit


Fredericksburg, Texas, is located in the Texas Hill Country about 70 miles north/northwest of San Antonio.  It was founded in 1846 by 120 German immigrants and named after Prince Frederick of Prussia.  Each German settler was sold a plot of land in town and 10 acres in the vicinity in exchange for settlement on the edge of the Comanchería, an area occupied by the fierce and brutal Comanche Indian tribe.  German was the main language of Fredericksburg until the 1940's, and is still used among the old families.  My grandfather, Cy Heard, loved this part of Texas, and used it as a base for his cattle operation.  As such, my mother, and later, all five of us kids, spent a good deal of our formative years here.  It is a wonderful part of the world, imbued with a strong sense of tradition, family values and patriotism.  

Many of the buildings are constructed using the locally quarried limestone



One of Mom's passions was restoration, and she threw her heart into the restoration of some of Fredericksburg's historical buildings.  For her first venture, she bought a Sunday House on Main Street.  Sunday Houses are small, in-town homes that the early German settlers used when they traveled from the farms outside of town to attend church on the weekends.  Around Christmastime, Mom loved to open the Sunday House to the public during the Holiday Home Tour.  She had it filled with antique furniture, toys and quilts, and dressed us up in dirndls (women) and lederhosen (men) for the full effect.

A sketch I have of the Loeffler Weber Haus

For another project, she bought two restaurants on Main Street, The Gallery and Domino Parlor, and and ran them for approximately 5 years.  The Gallery was in a three story building and the Domino Parlor was an adjacent casual dining establishment with a Biergarten.  Imagine my thrill when I heard that the building in which the Gallery was located has recently been lovingly renovated and reopened under the name Vaudeville.
As you enter off the street, the first floor features a home furnishings store, with a tasteful and fresh mix of styles.  The bistro-style café is located downstairs and was very warm and inviting on a cold, rainy day.  The lunch menu is small but inventive, and changes seasonally.  They offered a choice of two salads, four sandwiches, a soup du jour, a quiche du jour, cheese and charcuterie plates, antipasto platters, and a daily special.  We were seated at a table surrounded by a selection of lovely vinos.  We settled in by ordering some Côtes du Rhône with a few cheese and charcuterie plates.  Hubby and I split the Marinated Chicken Confit Salad and the Venison Reuben on Marble Rye.  We were spoiled by co-owner Richard Boprae, who made sure our glasses were never empty.  Richard is a French Canadian who shares my love (and taste) for cheese and wine.  He told me that the wine he sells in their market is a selection of his favorites, which happens to include a bottle of Lange Twins Midnight Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  Lange Twins is a fifth generation family farm and winery out of Lodi, California, whose President, Marissa Lange, is a good friend.  So, Marissa, now you know you have some fans down in the Hill Country!      


The bistro can accommodate large groups

Wine selections in the market

The home furnishings store on the 1st floor

On Monday nights, Vaudeville offers a Supper Club, a three course pre-fixe menu with wine pairings.  In addition, there is a gallery showcasing contemporary art.  There is also a courtyard that is designated for special events and private functions.  In short, Vaudeville is a unique experience to be found in the Texas Hill Country: a perfect mix of shopping, browsing, and - to tie in to my Enchanted Rock post (see Utterly Enchanting) - eating while enjoying the beauty of the surrounding countryside.

Should you find yourself in the mood for some German food, a long-time favorite of ours is the Altdorf.  I love to sit on the patio drinking a Paulaner Hefe-Weizen beer, then ordering first a sausage sampler (from the local smokehouse, Opa's), then the Red Baron sandwich (Swiss cheese melted over corned beef with onion, red cabbage and mustard), and for the finale, Mississippi Mud Pie.  Yum, yum, eat 'em up.

Should you find yourself in the mood for BBQ, scoot on over to Llano to check out Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que.  This place first piqued my interest when I heard that some people (evidently those who are pilots and have access to small planes) actually fly here from Austin (of all foodie places!) for BBQ.  I have only been here once, but it was worth the drive.  We tried as much as we could and enjoyed every bite:  the brisket, the giant pork chop, the smoked turkey and the rib eye.  Don't forget about the beans.  In my not-so-humble opinion, they are always an integral part of any BBQ experience.  I hope this gets y'all in the mood for some serious eatin'.

It is a true Texas experience to stand over a large smoker to pick out your meal
  
As a parting gift, I wanted to share with you one of our family Christmas cards that shows you that, notwithstanding the fact that I was 39 at the time, my mother still loved dressing us up in dirndls and lederhosen.  What is remarkable about this photo, is that all the clothes we are wearing came from her collection of German/Austrian clothes.  I now have a few of her beautiful dirndls in my closet, but cannot fit into them as Mom was so tiny.  I wonder if there is such a thing as a dirndl expander?  If you happen to know, drop me a line!  Until then, Malzeit!

"In München steht ein Hofbräuhaus..."
         

Vaudeville
230 East Main St, Fredericksburg
Bistro Hours Wed-Mon 8 am - 6 pm and Saturdays until 9 pm
Monday Night Supper Club 6:30 - 9:30 pm by Reservation
www.vaudeville-living.com 

Altdorf Biergarten
301 West Main St, Fredericksburg
Closed Tuesday
830-997-7865
www.altdorfbiergarten-fbg.com 

Cooper's BBQ
604 W. Young St, Llano
877-533-5553 (They take online orders)
www.coopersbbqllano.com   
Just to hear the Cooper's BBQ jingle, you have to visit their website

All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com.  I am sorry I do not have the information on artist of the sketch of the Loeffler Weber Haus.

Thursday, January 9, 2014

Utterly Enchanting



As I was scrolling through Pinterest the other day, I stumbled upon an article in the January 2013 edition of San Antonio magazine stating "52 Things Every San Antonian Must Do".  Topping this list at #1 is to climb Enchanted Rock.  Located approximately halfway between Fredericksburg and Llano, Texas, off of Ranch Road 965, Enchanted Rock is a massive pink granite formation rising 425 feet and spanning 640 acres.  American Indian legends and folklore abound with tales of this mythical rock, so named for its spiritual powers.  My favorite of which is that anyone who spends the night on the rock shall become invisible.  While my goal was not to become invisible, I set out with Hubby and Big Sis' to perhaps make a couple of pounds become invisible.  It was a glorious crisp Hill Country morning.

The Summit Trail is the most popular hiking path and is 6/10 of a mile

These vernal pools at the summit apparently contain fragile invertebrate fairy shrimp (what's that?)

At the summit

Rock formations

The 4 mile loop trail is lovely

Within the Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, in addition to hiking, are other activities including caving, rock climbing, trail running, picnicking, camping and birding.  I would imagine that the most colorful time to go would be in the spring, when the bluebonnets and Indian paint brushes are in bloom.  Nonetheless, it is apparently a pilgrimage every San Antonian must do.  I really cannot believe it took me 43 years to do it.  Should you find your tummy rumbling after all this activity, stay tuned and I will follow up with some recommendations on places to eat in the Fredericksburg area of the Hill Country.  Auf Wiedersehen!

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
16710 Ranch Rd 965
Fredericksburg, TX  78624
830-685-3636
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/enchanted-rock

Saturday, December 28, 2013

Chihuly in the Garden


Hubby and I spent a date night at the Desert Botanical Garden to see Las Noches de las Luminarias during the Chihuly in the Garden exhibit.  American glass sculptor Dale Chilhuly has paired with the Desert Botanical Garden for a second time to display his unique works of blown glass art.  The Chihuly exhibit runs through May 18, 2014, and features 21 stunning sculptures specially selected and placed throughout the Garden. 


These "Desert Towers" sculptures at the entrance of the garden resemble the surrounding yuccas.  They are permanent sculptures from the first Chihuly in the Garden exhibit five years ago. 
 
Desert Tower

Reminds me of a sea urchin

For 31 nights during the holiday season, the Garden presents Las Noches de las Luminarias.  During each night of the Luminaria, approximately 8,000 bags filled with candles line the pathways of the Garden, guiding the visitors from one lit saguaro to another.  Along the pathways, you can encounter groups of carolers, hand bell ringers, Apache story tellers, and mariachi bands.  Grab a cup of hot cider (how I would have loved a cup of glühwien!) and jump right on in.  The last night for the Luminaria is December 31st.  



The art of blown glass



This Desert Tower was close to 30 feet tall

This sculpture was in a boat floating on the water


Could you even imagine what the installation of this exhibit was like?

This was our favorite

It is almost reminiscent of a sea anemone

Cardón Cactus


Desert Botanical Garden
1201 N. Galvin Parkway, Phoenix  85008
480-481-8188
Tickets for Chihuly in the Garden Event: 
$22 for adults, $12 for students
Children under 3 are free of charge


All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com.

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Chocolat

 
Can it really be one more week until Christmas?  As I was dashing around town looking for some hostess gifts, a friend suggested I stop by the flagship store of Julia Baker Confections for some inspiration (and an espresso).  Celebrating its one year anniversary on December 17th, Julia Baker Confections is part boutique/part wine and coffee bar.  You will find it nestled between Williams-Sonoma and White House Black Market in the Biltmore Fashion Park Mall.  The architect on the project was Mark Candelaria and interior design done by Claire Ownby.  The wine and coffee bar can be rented for special events, and accommodates 30 people.  The wine list features, by the glass or bottle, refreshing selections such as Sorelle Bronca Prosecco, Veuve Clicquot Champagne, Graham's Tawny Port, and Julia's Signature Chocolate Martini.  The store will also sell bottles of champagne and port paired with a selection of chocolates.  It doesn't hurt that they sell Graham's port which is owned by the Symington family of Portugal (ok, call me biased).  Whatever you do, do not tarry...run out there today!








Julia Baker Confections
Biltmore Fashion Park
2502 East Camelback, Ste 130
(877) 4JULIAB
www.juliabakerconfections.com 


All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com.

Friday, December 6, 2013

Santa Ynez Valley - Part Two

After landing in Santa Barbara, and before taking the 101 to the 154 to Los Olivos (have you seen the SNL skit, The Californians?), we dashed downtown for a light seafood lunch at Hungry Cat, specifically to nosh on Santa Barbara sea urchin.

Maryland native David Lentz has three locations: Hollywood, Santa Monica and SB


The confluence of warm and cold water currents off the Channel Islands makes the Santa Barbara area an ideal location to harvest sea urchin.  This delectable sea creature, that is also known by the Japanese name of uni, is served at Hungry Cat over ice with crackers and lemons...oh, and very long spoons.

Spreadable goodness

A bottle (or two) of Chablis later, and a tummy full of everything from uni to Bald Point oysters and peel 'n' eat shrimp, we were off to the wine country of Santa Ynez.  Our first meal was at Mattei's Tavern in Los Olivos.  I had been looking forward to our dinner at Mattei's Tavern for months.  It reopened this summer after a change of ownership.  Brothers Matt and Jeff Nichols had been running Mattei's for many years, but after they lost their lease, they moved around the corner to open Sides Hardware and Shoes (our lunch destination for the next day).  Former Screaming Eagles owners, Charles and Ali Banks, took over the lease and hired a chef out of Nashville by the name of Robbie Wilson.
 


In 1861, the Overland Stage Coach Line first traveled to the small settlement of Los Olivos.  In 1886, a Swiss by the name of Felix Mattei built Mattei's Tavern to comfort traveling stage coach passengers.  The stage coach ran until 1914, when it was replaced by the Ford Model T.


Entering Mattei's through a wisteria-covered porch

Two dinner menus are offered, one called 1886, which includes inspirations from Felix Mattei, and the other labeled 2013, which are inspirations from Los Olivos.  We had fabulous selections from both menus, the highlights included:
Grilled Avocado with Ponzu and Fresh Wasabi
Grilled Artichoke with Green Harissa Dip
Crunchy Sea Creatures with Uni Tartar Sauce
Wagyu Skirt Steak with Fried Egg and Sauce Criolla
Halibut with Blueberries and Chanterelles (my fave shroom)
Tandoori-Spiced Cauliflower
Sweet Potatoes with Grilled Figs and Fresno Chiles (these will make you see heaven)

Crunchy Sea Creatures with Uni Tartar...love the presentation

Grilled Artichokes with a sauce of cilantro, jalapeños and harissa...also, great presentation

My brother-in-law, who owns a restaurant supply business, was very impressed by the kitchen

The spray bottle is a dead give-away that we were the last ones to leave...whoops!

We were fortunate enough to be in the capable hands of the house sommelier, Stephane Colling, the Alsacian native who was wine director at The Modern at MOMA in NYC.  What a win for Santa Ynez to have him around!  One dish we did not order, was "Morro Bay's Greatest Hits", a platter of oysters, shrimp and hamachi served on a vintage turntable.  However, it leaves me with something to look forward to this summer.

Sides Hardware and Shoes

Lunch on Day 2 found us at Sides Hardware and Shoes.  As previously mentioned, brothers Matt and Jeff Nichols opened this spot when they lost the lease on Mattei's, which they had been running for years.  I love this place for lunch.  I would call the cuisine "Wine Tasting Comfort Food".  I ordered the special of the day, Lamb Shank and Grilled Cheese Sourdough Sandwich with Toma Cheese and Carmelized Onions.  If that does not blow your mind, I don't know what will.  Hubby ordered the Fried Chicken Sandwich with Brothers Bacon, Pickled Onions and Brothers Ranch Dressing.  Wes Hagen from Clos Pepe (see Part One of this series) loves to pair this sandwich with the Clos Pepe Barrel Fermented Chardonnay.  They also have a mouth-watering selection of hamburgers made from Snake River Farms American kobe beef.   


Fried Brussels Sprouts with Sherry Vinegar and Capers, probably the healthiest item on the menu
 
A pic from the summer, I just had to show you what the Brothers Bacon looks like

Grab a latté before returning to wine tasting

Pumpkin Panna Cotta...if it were not for the latté, I would have then taken a nap

For dinner on Day 2, we actually left the cozy hamlet of Los Olivos and drove (hired driver, just in case you were wondering) to Santa Ynez to check out S.Y. Kitchen, which opened in April of 2013 to rave reviews.  Located in a charming farmhouse-style restaurant, S.Y. Kitchen serves modern Italian dishes under the watchful eye of Verona native, Chef Luca Crestanelli.  Yowza, he is cute!  Oh...and the food is pretty spectacular as well.  It was hopping on a Friday night, and a bit too dark for some pics.  I guess that just means I will have to go back to take some photos in the summer light (I also would love a pic with Chef Luca).  Meanwhile, I will remember the House Burrata, the Fresh Pea Salad with Arugula and Ricotta, the Fusilli with Rabbit Ragú (all pastas are made in-house), the Lamb Shank served over Polenta, and the Wood Fired Pizzas.  Absolutely charming...go check it out.

For Day 3, we decided to pack a picnic for lunch at a winery.  There is no better place to shop than at El Rancho Market in Solvang.  They have a burrito and taco bar (fill your tummy for breakfast), a selection of specialty sandwiches (check out the Ballard Canyon Delight with hot ham, spicy mustard, brie, tomato, arugula and vinaigrette on sourdough), fresh sushi, and not to be missed, across from the butcher you will find the Mississippi Caviar.  This is a dip with black-eyed peas, white beans, bell peppers, green onions, jalapeños and avocado in Italian dressing.  We also took some wine-infused cupcakes with us from Enjoy! in Los Olivos.  We were set for a wonderful day.

 
    

All good things must come to an end, they say.  We chose to end our wine and culinary extravaganza with an evening picnic at Jalama Cañon Ranch, which, lucky for us, is owned and operated by some lovely friends of ours from Santa Barbara.  We received a recommendation to hire John Aspra from Epicurean Cowboy Catering, and, can you believe, Chef Aspra grew up in the Texas Hill Country town of Hunt!  Done deal for this crowd.  Enjoy these last few pics, and I wish you a weekend filled with fun times and good eats.  

Jalama Cañon Ranch

Our dinner table

Quesadillas served on Saltillo...how great is that?


Yo y Chef John Aspra

Thank you Santa Ynez!!  You sure showed these Texans a great time!
 
Hungry Cat
1134 Chapala Street, Santa Barbara
www.thehungrycat.com 

Mattei's Tavern
2350 Railway Ave, Los Olivos
www.matteistavern.com 

Sides Hardware and Shoes
2375 Alamo Pintado Ave, Los Olivos
www.brothersrestaurant.com 

S.Y. Kitchen
1110 Faraday St, Santa Ynez
www.sykitchen.com 

El Rancho Market
2886 Mission Dr, Solvang
www.elranchomarket.com 

Jalama Cañon Ranch
www.jalamacanonranch.com 

Epicurean Cowboy
805-565-3983
www.epicureancowboy.com