Venezia, Venezia!

To drive across Texas from El Paso to Houston, it will take approximately 11 hours, with some change in topography and elevation (but not drastic).  So you can see why it was hard for me to believe that in just three hours in Italy, we drove drive from this:

Blinding snowstorm in a mountain pass

To this:

The canals of Venice

The kids were really excited about this leg of our trip, as they were trying to imagine a city with no cars or roads, a city whose position as a major trading power gave it the distinction of being the most prosperous city in Europe in the late 1300's and early 1400's.  I had been to Venice as a child, and now was returning with my own children.  Other than riding a gondola, what does one do with kids in Venice?  We had (almost) three full days with which to plan.  As it turns out, the highlights included attending a cooking class in a Venetian palazzo with Contessa Lelia Passi and taking a boat to the lagoon islands of Burano and Murano for shopping and glass blowing.   

We met the Contessa on a blustery spring morning in the Rialto Market, located near the famous Rialto Bridge.  We spent some time perusing the fresh vegetable stalls and picking out ingredients for our lunch: capellini with fresh peas, braised baby artichokes, traditional Venetian skewered game, and strawberries with balsamic carmel .

While we didn't buy any, I love the futuristic look of the Romanesco buds

White, green and purple asparagus

Me with a sad face in front of the horse butcher.  I have tried horse, but thankfully it was not included on our lunch menu

The view from Contessa Lelia's palazzo was out of control

I was crazy about her collection of copper pots and spices

She gave the kids a lot of freedom to experiment with rolling pasta dough

Under her watchful eye, I have to boast...

...that the kids turned out some pretty fantastic capellini

Braising artichokes

Enjoying the fruits of our labor with the Contessa at her beautiful table

Located a short motorboat ride from Venice are the three islands of the Venetian Lagoon: Murano, Torcello and Burano.  We took the good part of a day to visit two out of three.  Murano is best known for its glassware shops and factories, a tradition that has been thriving since 1291.  Nearby Burano, famous for the production of fine lace, is a colorful fisherman's island where we enjoyed a memorable meal at at local gem, Trattoria al Gatto Nero da Ruggero. 

Murano is linked by a series of bridges

Glass blowing in a Murano glass factory

Chandelier madness

Contessa Lelia's stunning antique Murano chandelier

Detail of the flowers

The charming leaning tower of Burano

 

Burano

In this case, the black cat is good luck

Interior of the Trattoria

Chef Ruggero

These baked scallops were beyond amazing

Razor clams...what a treat!

The presentation of the spider crab dish

We stuffed ourselves silly with seafood

While I cannot claim responsibility for crafting our fantastic Italian travel itinerary,  I can tell you about the insanely knowledgeable Bonnie Brayham, owner of the Purple Truffle.   She is someone after my own heart, whose passion of travel, adventure, food and wine prompted her to start her own company.  This was our second trip carefully organized by Bonnie, the first of which was two years ago to Paris and Beaune.  Please check her out at:

Purple Truffle

6, Rue de Commaille

75007  Paris

www.purpletruffle.com 

info@purpletruffle.com

+ 33 6 23 91 81 65

Hope you are having a wonderful start to your week.

xo M

This Is Where the Cowboy Rides Away

To mention King George in Texas is not to refer to the future King of England, the son of Kate and Wills, but to pay respect to the "King of Country Music", George Strait.  A calf roper from the South Texas strawberry capital of Poteet, George rose to country music stardom in 1981-82 after a string of hits such as "Unwound", "Fool-Hearted Memory", and "Amarillo By Morning".  He was reluctantly accepted by Nashville, as country music execs were worried that his brand of traditional music, reminiscent of Bob Wills and His Texas Playboys, would not be a big draw.  Today, after 33 years in the industry, George Strait is the only performer in history to have 60 number one hits under his belt, in any genre of music.  His style and grace have no equal, and he does it all in a pair of Wrangler jeans, a button down shirt, and and a cowboy hat.  It is his stay-true-to-yourself style that has won the hearts of thousands of fans across the globe.  There will never be another, and as he takes the stage this evening in Arlington, Texas, for the last show of his final tour, I raise a glass (or perhaps a Shiner Bock) and toast King George and his legacy.

And my heart is sinking like the setting sun
Setting on the things I wished I'd done
Oh the last goodbye is the hardest one to say
This is where the cowboy rides away 

Lyrics by Sonny Throckmorton and Casey Kelly

Culinary Highlights of Alta Badia

To say that a trip to the Alta Badia region of Italy was one of the culinary highlights of my life would be an understatement.  Michelin starred restaurants are so numerous that you could probably take a holiday to simply eat as many stars as your stomach can hold.  (I have read that the Dolomites claim the highest density of Michelin starred restaurants in Italy.)  Just as enjoyable, I loved finding the little mountain huts (ütia) with the self-taught chef whose food is out of this world, like Alma at the Vinoteca highlighted in my Sella Ronda post.  Hubby and I are mapping out a return trip where we hike from ütia to ütia savoring every last bite of knödel and Nebraska steak.  This post is an homage to some of my favorite dishes and experiences.

Located at the base of a ski run a short bus ride from San Cassiano, the Rifugio Scotoni is a meat-lovers paradise that comes highly recommended from local guides and concierges.  You have to work a little to get there, but the payoff is worth your while.

Set in a stunning valley, Rifugio Scotoni is at the bottom left

Waiting for a table can take a while, so grab an apéritif at Scotoncino

The platter of grilled meats is great to order for the table

Digestifs with a flag representing each customer's nationality

Soaking in the sun is a national pastime

We missed the last ski lift and had to take a horse taxi home...for reals

Don't drop your poles...it's a long walk home!

We managed to eat three Michelin stars during our stay, one at the Stüa de Michil at Hotel La Perla in Corvara, and two down the street from our hotel at the St. Hubertus in the Alpina Rosa.  I loved the homey atmosphere of Stüa de Michil, where diners seated in one of the many dining nooks feel as if they were dining in a private mountain residence.  Equally charming was the cheery dining room at St. Hubertus, named after the patron saint of hunters.  Both restaurants were equally stunning in their own right and showcase the finest in Ladin cooking, highlighting locally sourced and grown ingredients.  Plus, you gotta love the fact that sommelier at St. Hubertus doubled as our kids' ski instructor by day...what a life!

Our dining nook at La Stüa de Michil, where we were surrounded by bottles of Sassicaia

The owner's private dining area

Each table had a different centerpiece

If Lladró porcelain is your thing, you would have loved this table setting

Delicate amuses bouches to make our mouths very happy indeed

Dining at St. Hubertus in the Alpina Rosa Hotel

Tulips and ranunculus create a soft color palette for these centerpieces

Beetroot gnocchi with beet "soil" and cream of daikon cress...just lovely

Sweet and sour ancient vegetables with cream of fermented milk - ok, so there must have been something lost in the translation here, as this does not sound appetizing, but was delish

As if we hadn't had enough meat, we heard that the Armentarola was THE place to go for Chateaubriand in an unparalleled outdoor patio setting.  To get there, you can drive, take a taxi or ski.  The day on which we planned this treat was, sadly, cloudy.  Even though we were relegated to the indoor dining area, we experienced yet another fantastic meal.  We set about ordering lunch with the help of a very knowledgeable waiter, who insisted we order the steak tartare as a STARTER to the Chateaubriand.  I cannot tell you how glad I am that he was so insistent (pushy), as it was the best steak tartare I have ever had.

Steak tartare with egg, garlic, onions, paprika, mustard, parsley, capers, olives

 

At the insistence (again) of our waiter, we enjoyed this red from the Alto Adige

One particularly sunny day, we skiied over to Club Moritzino to check out their fresh squid ink pasta.  Club Moritzino is a mountain restaurant open year-round, famous for the panoramic views, the fresh fish menu, wine bar and DJ parties that start at 2 pm and continue throughout the day. 

Club Moritzino on Piz La Ila Mountain

Les gens chic sont au Club Moritzino

Il tavolo (check out the view)

Bevande (again check out the view)

Selection of local seafood (we are on a mountain 2 hours from Venice...unreal!)

Housemade squid ink pasta atop scallop carpaccio

Le DJ

Le Moët

Just in case you were wondering, if you have too much to drink, you can catch a ride back down on a snow cat.  Love, love, love this place!!

Still scratching my head over the exact meaning of this sign

Avere un buon fine settimana.  
'xo M

 

All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com

And She's Back!

Yes, I have been totally mysto this past month, but my excuse is a pretty good one...we have moved out of our house where we have spent 8 happy years, into a condo, where we are patiently (or maybe not so) waiting to move into a house that has been under construction for close to 2 years.  I don't do well outside of a routine, and the result (other than the obvious of not finding time to write) has been that, in the past month, I have not paid a bill, exercised or made a home-cooked meal, each of which on their own is bad enough, but all together have turned me into a raging Desperate housewife.  But I am getting organized and settled, and am psyched about entering a new chapter in our lives.  

Just prior to the move, we went to San Antonio for Fiesta, a week-long celebration honoring the fallen heroes of the Alamo and the Battle of San Jacinto (the battle that ultimately gained Texas its independence from Mexico).  I usually describe Fiesta as San Antonio's version of Mardi Gras, as it is a week of parades, street parties and fairs.  For those who have never been to San Antonio, it is a wonderful time to visit and experience the true spirit of San Antonio.

One of my 8 darling nieces was a member of Fiesta "royalty"

I love the colorful decorations found in some neighborhoods

The Battle of Flowers Parade is the only parade in the U.S. produced entirely by women

Another favorite of mine is the River Parade, presented by the men in blue, the Texas Cavaliers

Gotta check out the King William Fair for a turkey leg...

...or maybe some chicken fried bacon

Let's get a close up of that chicken fried bacon

As I write this I realize that this is a holiday weekend where we are honoring all of our fallen heroes who have fought bravely for our freedoms.  Memorial Day Weekend was a reflective time in our family, a time when my father would remember all the courageous men and women who served with him and under him.  I have memories of visiting cemeteries that were dotted with colorful American flags, and I encourage everyone to take a moment this weekend to give a silent word of thanks.

My father is the handsome man to the far right

PS Happy Birthday Nana
xo M