Culinary Highlights of Alta Badia

To say that a trip to the Alta Badia region of Italy was one of the culinary highlights of my life would be an understatement.  Michelin starred restaurants are so numerous that you could probably take a holiday to simply eat as many stars as your stomach can hold.  (I have read that the Dolomites claim the highest density of Michelin starred restaurants in Italy.)  Just as enjoyable, I loved finding the little mountain huts (ütia) with the self-taught chef whose food is out of this world, like Alma at the Vinoteca highlighted in my Sella Ronda post.  Hubby and I are mapping out a return trip where we hike from ütia to ütia savoring every last bite of knödel and Nebraska steak.  This post is an homage to some of my favorite dishes and experiences.

Located at the base of a ski run a short bus ride from San Cassiano, the Rifugio Scotoni is a meat-lovers paradise that comes highly recommended from local guides and concierges.  You have to work a little to get there, but the payoff is worth your while.

Set in a stunning valley, Rifugio Scotoni is at the bottom left

Waiting for a table can take a while, so grab an apéritif at Scotoncino

The platter of grilled meats is great to order for the table

Digestifs with a flag representing each customer's nationality

Soaking in the sun is a national pastime

We missed the last ski lift and had to take a horse taxi home...for reals

Don't drop your poles...it's a long walk home!

We managed to eat three Michelin stars during our stay, one at the Stüa de Michil at Hotel La Perla in Corvara, and two down the street from our hotel at the St. Hubertus in the Alpina Rosa.  I loved the homey atmosphere of Stüa de Michil, where diners seated in one of the many dining nooks feel as if they were dining in a private mountain residence.  Equally charming was the cheery dining room at St. Hubertus, named after the patron saint of hunters.  Both restaurants were equally stunning in their own right and showcase the finest in Ladin cooking, highlighting locally sourced and grown ingredients.  Plus, you gotta love the fact that sommelier at St. Hubertus doubled as our kids' ski instructor by day...what a life!

Our dining nook at La Stüa de Michil, where we were surrounded by bottles of Sassicaia

The owner's private dining area

Each table had a different centerpiece

If Lladró porcelain is your thing, you would have loved this table setting

Delicate amuses bouches to make our mouths very happy indeed

Dining at St. Hubertus in the Alpina Rosa Hotel

Tulips and ranunculus create a soft color palette for these centerpieces

Beetroot gnocchi with beet "soil" and cream of daikon cress...just lovely

Sweet and sour ancient vegetables with cream of fermented milk - ok, so there must have been something lost in the translation here, as this does not sound appetizing, but was delish

As if we hadn't had enough meat, we heard that the Armentarola was THE place to go for Chateaubriand in an unparalleled outdoor patio setting.  To get there, you can drive, take a taxi or ski.  The day on which we planned this treat was, sadly, cloudy.  Even though we were relegated to the indoor dining area, we experienced yet another fantastic meal.  We set about ordering lunch with the help of a very knowledgeable waiter, who insisted we order the steak tartare as a STARTER to the Chateaubriand.  I cannot tell you how glad I am that he was so insistent (pushy), as it was the best steak tartare I have ever had.

Steak tartare with egg, garlic, onions, paprika, mustard, parsley, capers, olives

 

At the insistence (again) of our waiter, we enjoyed this red from the Alto Adige

One particularly sunny day, we skiied over to Club Moritzino to check out their fresh squid ink pasta.  Club Moritzino is a mountain restaurant open year-round, famous for the panoramic views, the fresh fish menu, wine bar and DJ parties that start at 2 pm and continue throughout the day. 

Club Moritzino on Piz La Ila Mountain

Les gens chic sont au Club Moritzino

Il tavolo (check out the view)

Bevande (again check out the view)

Selection of local seafood (we are on a mountain 2 hours from Venice...unreal!)

Housemade squid ink pasta atop scallop carpaccio

Le DJ

Le Moët

Just in case you were wondering, if you have too much to drink, you can catch a ride back down on a snow cat.  Love, love, love this place!!

Still scratching my head over the exact meaning of this sign

Avere un buon fine settimana.  
'xo M

 

All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com

And She's Back!

Yes, I have been totally mysto this past month, but my excuse is a pretty good one...we have moved out of our house where we have spent 8 happy years, into a condo, where we are patiently (or maybe not so) waiting to move into a house that has been under construction for close to 2 years.  I don't do well outside of a routine, and the result (other than the obvious of not finding time to write) has been that, in the past month, I have not paid a bill, exercised or made a home-cooked meal, each of which on their own is bad enough, but all together have turned me into a raging Desperate housewife.  But I am getting organized and settled, and am psyched about entering a new chapter in our lives.  

Just prior to the move, we went to San Antonio for Fiesta, a week-long celebration honoring the fallen heroes of the Alamo and the Battle of San Jacinto (the battle that ultimately gained Texas its independence from Mexico).  I usually describe Fiesta as San Antonio's version of Mardi Gras, as it is a week of parades, street parties and fairs.  For those who have never been to San Antonio, it is a wonderful time to visit and experience the true spirit of San Antonio.

One of my 8 darling nieces was a member of Fiesta "royalty"

I love the colorful decorations found in some neighborhoods

The Battle of Flowers Parade is the only parade in the U.S. produced entirely by women

Another favorite of mine is the River Parade, presented by the men in blue, the Texas Cavaliers

Gotta check out the King William Fair for a turkey leg...

...or maybe some chicken fried bacon

Let's get a close up of that chicken fried bacon

As I write this I realize that this is a holiday weekend where we are honoring all of our fallen heroes who have fought bravely for our freedoms.  Memorial Day Weekend was a reflective time in our family, a time when my father would remember all the courageous men and women who served with him and under him.  I have memories of visiting cemeteries that were dotted with colorful American flags, and I encourage everyone to take a moment this weekend to give a silent word of thanks.

My father is the handsome man to the far right

PS Happy Birthday Nana
xo M

Sella Ronda

During our Dolomite ski trip, we were fortunate to have wonderful weather in order to ski the Sella Ronda.  A loop that runs either clockwise or counter clockwise around the Sella Massif, the Sella Ronda is 26 kilometers of ski trails that takes you through 4 passes, 4 valleys, and 3 provinces.  The loop starts/ends in the lovely town of Corvara, where we followed the signs that took us to the series of lifts and gondolas. 

Just follow the signs

We enjoyed the breathtaking views...

...from many vantage points...

...stopped on occasion for a refresco (or two)...

...and prayed that at the end there would be a wonderful spot for lunch...

...and what better place to stop...

...than at a hidden vinoteca!

Recommended by a local ski guide (who clearly doubles as a local gourmand), the Vinoteca Ursus Ladinicus is a charming spot located on the mountain at the Punta Trieste next to the Utia Punta Trieste.  This is one of those spots that you don't want everyone knowing about.  However, it is too much of a gem to go unmentioned.  They offer a nice selection of local wines in one of the most quaint settings on the mountain.  The menu changes daily, depending on availability.  There is no written menu, so we settled in to enjoy the daily specials.  We were offered an appetizer of prosciutto and local cheeses, and an entrée choice of either Nebraska steak or Speck knödel (ham dumplings).  Interestingly enough, many restaurants were offering Nebraska steak on their menus.  I could not find an answer as to why Nebraska steak would be enjoying this kind of popularity in Northern Italy.  I can only surmise that there is a very smart marketing guru in Nebraska, because this Texas girl is here to tell you that it is amazing steak.  
At Vinoteca, hopefully you will be lucky enough to encounter Chef Alma behind the stove.  She is a dream, and if you get on her good side, she will fry up some local specialties for you try.  With my smattering of German, and please excuse if I butcher this, I think she made us a Ladin dish by the name of Turtrese, which were delicate fried "empanadas" (if you will) filled with spinach and ricotta.  

Prosciutto y vino

Nebraska steak with grilled radicchio in the background next to ham and spinach dumplings

A Ladin dish by the name of turtrese (I think!)

The interior of the Vinoteca

So, why such a long, strange name for a restaurant?  Owner Willy Costamoling made a fascinating discovery while hiking in 1987.  At 8,000 feet, he found a cave with the fossil remains of a now-extinct cave bear.  The fossils were analyzed and found to be a new species of bear, since named Ursus Ladinicus in honor of the Ladin people who live in the valley.  The findings have been instrumental in the study and understanding of the prehistoric times of the Dolomites.  You will find the Museo Ursus Ladinicus in San Cassiano which is a fun spot to take kids, with a reconstruction of the cave Willy found on the basement floor.  Willy is quite the entrepreneur as we found out.  He was in Peru at the time getting ready to launch an olive oil line that is a mix of Italian olives and a Peruvian nut that is said to be very high in Omega 3 fatty acids.  We availed ourselves of the samples they were passing out at lunch.  Whatever you do, do not try Willy's homemade grappa...it is the closest thing I can imagine to moonshine and will make your last run down a doozy.  You cannot say I didn't warn you...    

Willy's EVOO

A replica of the cave bear skull found in the cave

Museum Ursus Ladinicus

Strada Micurà de Rü 26, San Cassiano, Italy
Tel.: +39 0474 524020
Fax: +39 0474 524263 info@museumladin.it www.museumladin.it


All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com.