On The Road To Alta Badia

The first leg of our Italy trip led us from Milan, where we arrived by plane and rented a car, to a small town on the western shore of Lake Garda called Gargnano.  After having been awake for 24 hours at this point, I could not have driven much further.  We enjoyed the views, had a big lunch, and hit the sack in our comfy room at the Lefay Resort.  The Lefay Resort is a beautiful, modern spa resort opened in 2008 that is set high up the hill from the quaint town of Gargnano.  Gargnano was a great stop-over and I am vowing to return one day, if only to see Villa Feltrinelli, which is only open April through October.  Villa Feltrinelli was Mussolini's last home, and after a $30 million dollar remodel is a 20-room hotel.  Maybe I would split my time between Lefay and Villa Feltrinelli...

Sunset at the Lefay Resort

Sunday Brunch

Fully rested the next day, we were ready for the 3-hour drive to San Cassiano in the Alta Badia.  The drive was stunning on a crisp, blue Italian spring day.

Gargnano, and our destination, the mountains, in the background

The church of San Martino, Gargnano

Just north of Lake Garda lies the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region.  Due to the fact that it was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1919, you will find many Germanic grape varieties, such as Gewürztraminer and Riesling, as well as some of Italy's most famous sparkling wines and red varietals.

Driving north into the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region

More from Trentino-Atlo Adige

There are over 400 castles in the region

Gaining altitude in the mountains, we started to see more Austrian influences in the architecture.  As part of the terms of the Treaty of Saint-Germain of 1919, at the close of the First World War, Italy annexed Trentino-Alto Adige (also known as South Tyrol), which, according to a census in 1910, showed that 92% of inhabitants were German speakers.  The area is an interesting mix of Austrian and Italian influences, and I ended up using a lot of my college German (how I dusted off those cobwebs, I will never know!).   

Coming up to the first of the ski villages

Our introduction to the Dolomiti, the Dolomite mountain range

Arriving in Alta Badia, an area encompassing 1,200 km of ski trails

The Dolomites were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Centre in 2009 and are comprised of 18 peaks, each of which surpasses 9,800 feet.  Our ski destination was a town called San Cassiano, located in the Alta Badia ski region.  Below was a welcoming sign after spending 3 hours in a car on a winding, mountainous road with 2 carsick children.  The languages spoken, as indicated on the sign, are Ladin, which is the local language, followed by Italian and German.

We chose a charming abode for our week-long stay called the Lagaciò Mountain Residence.  Built in 2009 from locally sourced materials such as pine, spruce and larch, the Lagaciò has 29 apartments, each spacious and tastefully appointed. 

The Ammonite Suite comfortably accommodated five people

There was a small kitchen with all the modern amenities

Master bedroom

A sauna was located in the guest bathroom

Purified drinking water from a spout

A tea bar should that capture your fancy

Good night spelled in the local language, Ladin

San Cassiano at sunset

Bëgnodii and sweet dreams!   Stick around for some good eats in the next few posts!


xoxo M

Bonjourno!

We have just returned from a two week eating extravaganza in Northern Italy and I wanted to post a teaser for you with some photos I posted on Instagram from the trip.  Stay tuned for a fun ride...

Preparing to ski the Sella Ronda

A perfect spring ski day

Vino and prosciutto

View of the Dolomite mountain range

Eating squid ink pasta with scallop carpaccio on the slopes

This lovely city needs no introduction

xoxo M

Hey Baby Let's Go To Vegas

A birthday tradition for me the last 5 years has been to go to Vegas for a fabulous dinner and a show.  The first trip set the bar very high, as we saw the incomparable Tom Jones and then ate an outstanding 7 course meal at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand.  I wish I had been a blogger back then.  This was Vegas before the recession, and it was mind blowing.  I have been back to Joël Robuchon once since then, and it is still fabulous and beautiful, but not what it was before the bottom fell out of the Vegas economy.  The cheese cart was a little smaller, the menu not as diverse, and the cute French waiters were gone.  Needless to say, I wish I had known then that that evening would be a very difficult one to recreate.  Maybe I would have taken a few pictures of the meal, maybe I would have asked for another glass of rosé champagne (they were $75 a piece!!), maybe I would have savored it a little more. 

Not to be discouraged, we have returned year after year, and have never been disappointed.  We have paired an evening of Garth Brooks with dinner at Guy Savoy, Cher with Nobu, and Beatles Live with Wolfgang Puck.  Last year, we stayed at the Aria in the (then) recently-opened City Center and dined at Julian Serrano before heading over to the Venetian to see Tim McGraw and Faith Hill in their Soul2Soul show.

A two-time James Beard Award winner, Julian Serrano was raised in Spain and made his mark in the States working at Masa's in San Francisco and later as executive chef at Picasso in the Mirage.  His namesake restaurant specializes in tapas and other Spanish food, and has received the Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator Magazine.  The menu at Julian Serrano is lengthy, with close to 60 plates from which to choose.  But they are all small plates, so one person can choose several.  With the help of our charming waiter from Belgium, we ordered the following smorgasbord: Tuna Tartar Cones, with cucumber avocado ponzu in crispy wontons; Gambas, shrimp sautéed with garlic and chile de arbol; Rabo de Toro, oxtail with Iberian pork and mashed potatoes; Black Rice, with calamari and lobster meat sofrito in squid ink; Stuffed Piquillo Peppers, with goat cheese and mushrooms; and, last, but not least, Pata Negra ham, described as "the most delicious ham in the world", and it is (which reminds me that I should write a post about our trek to Montánchez, Spain, which is one of the main centers for the production of pata, negra, also known as Jamón Ibérico).  

The design of the restaurant is a colorful mix of orange, red, yellow and purple mosaic tile throughout, even in the bathroom, where you will hear Berlitz-type tapes teaching you Spanish.  Our waiter said the layout of the mosaic tiles were designed by Pablo Picasso's son.  I will take that and run with it. 

I normally don't take pics of bathroom, but this was too fun

Floor, walls, bar front: everything is tiled

I snuck in before the restaurant opened to take most of these pics

With a belly full of Pata Negra, we made our way to the show.  Tim and Faith sang many duets and took turns singing each of their big hits, with costume changes in between.  Highlights included a tribute to the Eagles with "One Of Those Nights" and "I Can't Tell You Why", Faith's hits, including "Piece of My Heart" and "Breathe", and Tim's "One Of Those Nights", and the ah-mazing "Live Like You Were Dying".  (Tim had me from the beginning with the black cowboy hat and the tight silk suits...I love that guy.)  I highly, highly recommend the show.  Catch it on Fridays or Saturdays through April 12.  The lyrics of Live Like You Were Dying strike a cord with me, reminding me that everyday is precious, and to treat it like a gift.  I wish the same for you.   

I was in my early forties with a lot of life before me

When a moment came that stopped me on a dime

I spent most of the next days, looking at the x-rays

Talking 'bout the options and talking 'bout sweet time

I asked him when it sank in that this might be the real end

How's it hit 'cha when you get that kinds of news?

Man, what'd ya do?  And he said

I went sky diving 
I went rocky mountain climbing

I went two point seven seconds on a bull named Fu Man Chu

And I loved deeper and I spoke sweeter

And I gave forgiveness I'd been denyin'

And he said, someday I hope you get the chance

To live like you were dyin' 

Written by Nichols, James Timothy/Wiseman, Craig Michael 

 


What is next on my list?  Britney, for sure!  If you have any suggestions on restaurants, shoot me a line, or leave your comment at the end of the page. 
xoxo M

Patagonia, Chile

It seems a bit irrational that when the weather in AZ is at its finest (to rub it in, highs in the 70's, lows in the 50's), we should find ourselves traveling to colder, wetter climes.  But when Spring Break rolls around, we find ourselves leaving this idyll to seek something different.  As I prepare for our Spring Break trip this year to Northern Italy, I find myself looking back at some great trips that I feel are worth a post.

Hubby and I took a Happy Anniversary trip to Patagonia, Chile, in 2005, specifically to the Hotel Explora in Torres Del Paine National Park.  This type of trip appeals to Hubby's sense of adventure, and, truth be told, I was interested in exploring this part of the world that is the neighbor of Antarctica.  To get there, we flew from Atlanta 10 hours due south to the capital of Chile, Santiago.  We caught up on our sleep a couple of days there before heading south again, another 5 hours in a plane to Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in the world.  From there, it was a 5 hour drive, mostly on dirt roads, to Torres Del Paine and our hotel.  To travel this far, to a place this remote took a leap of faith for me.  But the reward was incredible.  

Near Punta Arenas, overlooking the Straights of Magellan

The view from our hotel room.  For reals.

What does one do this far south, you may ask?  A little bit of everything.  We hiked a lot, rode horses a couple of times (galloping through the pampas is a highlight), pampered ourselves a little (many salt baths to ease those aching muscles), and met some wonderful characters over delicious meals and Chilean Carmanere, a red varietal that is considered Chile's signature grape.

I am the yellow dot

Up and up we go...

...to our destination, a glacier lake (brrr)

The views everywhere were fabuloso

I have never experienced wind like this, however

Hiking to a glacer was a highlight

We returned to our hotel on a barco

The local cuisine, lamb

The saddles were quite comfy

 

But the best part of the ride was sitting around the fire with the gauchos

And taking sips from the bota bag

Happy Monday!

Sedona

 
What do you think

Of Arizona

Is it just the desert wind

Or a delta flood plain valley

Where the towering cactus live?

It's the Call of the Canyon

Bell Rock, Cathedral, Mitten Ridge

It's Sedona, Sedona

Where the lovin' people live

Lyrics by Donna Loren

Sedona is an easy 115-mile drive up I-17 north of Phoenix.  My earliest memories of Sedona are from graduate school, when we would just pop up there for the day to sample margaritas and cactus fries.  Later in life, it has become a place we go to celebrate anniversaries or Valentine's Day.  There are many lovely places to stay, including the most famous, which are the Enchantment Resort, with the relaxing Mii Amo spa, and the L'Auberge de Sedona, situated right in the heart of Sedona on Oak Creek.  This trip, however, was planned as a spur-of-the-moment girls trip (me and my two girls, that is), and we had two last minute add-ons which ended up driving the direction of our trip.

"Please take us with you to Sedona, Mama"

So this was the pet-friendly version of a Sedona trip.  They are good travelers and are just happy to be included.  This was going to be easy.  I booked a room at the Best Western Plus Inn of Sedona on Highway 89, which is a pet-friendly hotel that boasts some of the best views in Sedona.  It was very comfortable, and, yes, had wonderful views.

I felt like I had to start the weekend off with a margarita at Elote Cafe.  A friend of mine gave me the Elote Cafe Cookbook some years ago, and every since, the restaurant is a go-to for me in Sedona.  The cuisine of Chef Jeff Smedstad is inspired by his travels around Mexico.  Having spent a good amount of time traveling and taking cooking lessons in Mexico, I find his menu refreshing and muy delicioso.  This trip I tried the Ahi Tuna Asado while my daughter ordered the Chile Verde Pork Tamale.  Be sure to try the namesake dish of Elote, fire roasted corn with spicy mayo, lime and cotija cheese.  Wash it all down with a Jeff's Margarita made with one of my favorite tequilas, Don Julio.  (You can find the Elote Cafe Cookbook on either Amazon.com or on the cafe's website, listed below.) 

Grilled Hawaiian Tuna with Chile Verde Sauce and Roasted Corn Salsa

 

Poblano Chile Braised Pork Shoulder Tamale

In the morning we meandered back up the highway to the town of Oak Creek to try the Red Rock Cafe, which locals have said has wonderful blue corn huevos rancheros.  I couldn't dream of a better meal to get me ready for a day of hiking.  It is located in a nondescript strip mall, and once inside is an inviting atmosphere surrounded by paintings of the scenery of Sedona done by local artists.  Other house specialties include Southwest Chicken Fried Steak and Cowboy Style Benedict, poached eggs served atop biscuits and sausage and covered with gravy.  Breakfast is served until 3 pm for those of you who like to sleep in.

Blue Corn Huevos Rancheros

Painting of Cathedral Rock

Interior of Red Rock Cafe

I chose a hike that the kids and dogs could handle.  There is a website, www.greatsedonahikes.com, that I used to find the Little Horse Trail, billed as one of the most scenic hikes in the area.  It is located right off Highway 179 in between the Village of Oak Creek and Sedona.  Described as a moderate hike of 4 miles round trip, it was easy enough for anyone in relatively healthy shape to enjoy.  It is level with very little altitude gain. 

Our destination was to the right of the two spires

All the trails are well marked

Very cool house as seen from the trail

Getting closer...

...almost there...

Yeah!

In case you were wondering, the red dust is a bear to wash off

Heading back to the car...can you believe those views!

Chapel of the Holy Cross, as seen from the Little Horse Trail

A trip to Sedona is a treat in and of itself, but if you have the time, swing by the old mining town of Jerome on the way back to Phoenix.  Even if you only have an hour to spare, that is a nice amount of time to get an introduction to this historic copper mining town.  Now a tourist and artist community, Jerome has a population of 450, down from 15,000 in the 1920's when the nearby mine was producing 3 million pounds of copper per month.  The town is perched at 5,200 on the side of a mountain, and has incredible views.  Popular attractions include the Jerome Historical Society Mine Museum and the Sliding Jail, the former jail that slid 225 feet downhill due to settling issues.  We watched a glass blowing exhibition and had a quick lunch of pizza on the patio of Grapes Restaurant before heading back home.  All in all, a successful weekend.

From Jerome, a view of the San Francisco Peaks of Northern AZ

Best Western Plus Inn of Sedona

1200 Arizona 89A

Sedona, AZ  86336

928-282-3072

www.bestwestern.com/Sedona 

Elote Cafe

771 State Route 179

Sedona, AZ  

928-203-0105

www.elotecafe.com 

Elote does not take reservations...it is first-come-first-serve

The Red Rock Cafe

100 Verde Valley School Rd, Ste 107

928-284-1441

www.redrockcafe.wordpress.com 

Grapes Restaurant

111 Main St, Jerome, AZ 

928-639-8477

www.grapesjerome.com 

Reflections

I wrote this post on my iPhone from the top of Camelback Mountain today.  I had to get out of the house and clear my head.  I dropped everything I "had" to do, and laced up my trail runners.  In a very short period of time, I was scrambling over boulders with my heart beating out of my chest.  At the top, I was rewarded with the extraordinary beauty of the valley below and a certain sense of accomplishment.  As I sat at the top reflecting on the recent loss of another dear family member, I was reminded of why I started writing this blog almost a year ago today.  To let go of sadness and grief and to share what I find joyful in life.  I have to be honest, however, that it is not always easy.  Life is full of trials and tribulations, and just when I think I have the hang of it, I find myself knocked down.  The hard part is wiping off the dirt and getting back up.  To use an allegory, last week, I was riding a very large 17-hand Warmblood that spooked at something in the corner of the ring and sent me flying into the dirt (I literally had dirt in my eyelashes and between my teeth).  The instructor asked me to get back on and take one more jump.  I didn't hesitate, but as I was lifted back onto the saddle, a large part of my conscience was screaming at me to reconsider.  Nonetheless, I collected my horse, centered him towards the jump, and we went soaring beautifully over the jump.  It was more exhilarating because of the fall.  I write it down so I won't forget this lesson.  I am, as ever, thankful for the strength of my incredible family and of the everlasting support of my friends.  And I vow never, ever, to lose my sense of humor...ever.  
xoxo M