Saturday, April 19, 2014

Sella Ronda



During our Dolomite ski trip, we were fortunate to have wonderful weather in order to ski the Sella Ronda.  A loop that runs either clockwise or counter clockwise around the Sella Massif, the Sella Ronda is 26 kilometers of ski trails that takes you through 4 passes, 4 valleys, and 3 provinces.  The loop starts/ends in the lovely town of Corvara, where we followed the signs that took us to the series of lifts and gondolas. 


Just follow the signs

We enjoyed the breathtaking views...

...from many vantage points...
...stopped on occasion for a refresco (or two)...

...and prayed that at the end there would be a wonderful spot for lunch...

...and what better place to stop...

...than at a hidden vinoteca!

Recommended by a local ski guide (who clearly doubles as a local gourmand), the Vinoteca Ursus Ladinicus is a charming spot located on the mountain at the Punta Trieste next to the Utia Punta Trieste.  This is one of those spots that you don't want everyone knowing about.  However, it is too much of a gem to go unmentioned.  They offer a nice selection of local wines in one of the most quaint settings on the mountain.  The menu changes daily, depending on availability.  There is no written menu, so we settled in to enjoy the daily specials.  We were offered an appetizer of prosciutto and local cheeses, and an entrée choice of either Nebraska steak or Speck knödel (ham dumplings).  Interestingly enough, many restaurants were offering Nebraska steak on their menus.  I could not find an answer as to why Nebraska steak would be enjoying this kind of popularity in Northern Italy.  I can only surmise that there is a very smart marketing guru in Nebraska, because this Texas girl is here to tell you that it is amazing steak.  
At Vinoteca, hopefully you will be lucky enough to encounter Chef Alma behind the stove.  She is a dream, and if you get on her good side, she will fry up some local specialties for you try.  With my smattering of German, and please excuse if I butcher this, I think she made us a Ladin dish by the name of Turtrese, which were delicate fried "empanadas" (if you will) filled with spinach and ricotta.  


Prosciutto y vino

Nebraska steak with grilled radicchio in the background next to ham and spinach dumplings

A Ladin dish by the name of turtrese (I think!)

The interior of the Vinoteca

So, why such a long, strange name for a restaurant?  Owner Willy Costamoling made a fascinating discovery while hiking in 1987.  At 8,000 feet, he found a cave with the fossil remains of a now-extinct cave bear.  The fossils were analyzed and found to be a new species of bear, since named Ursus Ladinicus in honor of the Ladin people who live in the valley.  The findings have been instrumental in the study and understanding of the prehistoric times of the Dolomites.  You will find the Museo Ursus Ladinicus in San Cassiano which is a fun spot to take kids, with a reconstruction of the cave Willy found on the basement floor.  Willy is quite the entrepreneur as we found out.  He was in Peru at the time getting ready to launch an olive oil line that is a mix of Italian olives and a Peruvian nut that is said to be very high in Omega 3 fatty acids.  We availed ourselves of the samples they were passing out at lunch.  Whatever you do, do not try Willy's homemade grappa...it is the closest thing I can imagine to moonshine and will make your last run down a doozy.  You cannot say I didn't warn you...    

Willy's EVOO

A replica of the cave bear skull found in the cave


Museum Ursus Ladinicus
Strada Micurà de Rü 26, San Cassiano, Italy
Tel.: +39 0474 524020
Fax: +39 0474 524263
info@museumladin.it www.museumladin.it


All photos by Marci Symington for texaztaste.blogspot.com.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

On The Road To Alta Badia



The first leg of our Italy trip led us from Milan, where we arrived by plane and rented a car, to a small town on the western shore of Lake Garda called Gargnano.  After having been awake for 24 hours at this point, I could not have driven much further.  We enjoyed the views, had a big lunch, and hit the sack in our comfy room at the Lefay Resort.  The Lefay Resort is a beautiful, modern spa resort opened in 2008 that is set high up the hill from the quaint town of Gargnano.  Gargnano was a great stop-over and I am vowing to return one day, if only to see Villa Feltrinelli, which is only open April through October.  Villa Feltrinelli was Mussolini's last home, and after a $30 million dollar remodel is a 20-room hotel.  Maybe I would split my time between Lefay and Villa Feltrinelli...

Sunset at the Lefay Resort
Sunday Brunch

Fully rested the next day, we were ready for the 3-hour drive to San Cassiano in the Alta Badia.  The drive was stunning on a crisp, blue Italian spring day.

Gargnano, and our destination, the mountains, in the background
The church of San Martino, Gargnano

Just north of Lake Garda lies the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region.  Due to the fact that it was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1919, you will find many Germanic grape varieties, such as Gewürztraminer and Riesling, as well as some of Italy's most famous sparkling wines and red varietals.

Driving north into the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region
More from Trentino-Atlo Adige
There are over 400 castles in the region







Gaining altitude in the mountains, we started to see more Austrian influences in the architecture.  As part of the terms of the Treaty of Saint-Germain of 1919, at the close of the First World War, Italy annexed Trentino-Alto Adige (also known as South Tyrol), which, according to a census in 1910, showed that 92% of inhabitants were German speakers.  The area is an interesting mix of Austrian and Italian influences, and I ended up using a lot of my college German (how I dusted off those cobwebs, I will never know!).   

Coming up to the first of the ski villages
Our introduction to the Dolomiti, the Dolomite mountain range
Arriving in Alta Badia, an area encompassing 1,200 km of ski trails

The Dolomites were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Centre in 2009 and are comprised of 18 peaks, each of which surpasses 9,800 feet.  Our ski destination was a town called San Cassiano, located in the Alta Badia ski region.  Below was a welcoming sign after spending 3 hours in a car on a winding, mountainous road with 2 carsick children.  The languages spoken, as indicated on the sign, are Ladin, which is the local language, followed by Italian and German.


We chose a charming abode for our week-long stay called the Lagaciò Mountain Residence.  Built in 2009 from locally sourced materials such as pine, spruce and larch, the Lagaciò has 29 apartments, each spacious and tastefully appointed. 

The Ammonite Suite comfortably accommodated five people
There was a small kitchen with all the modern amenities
Master bedroom
A sauna was located in the guest bathroom
Purified drinking water from a spout
A tea bar should that capture your fancy
Good night spelled in the local language, Ladin
San Cassiano at sunset

Bëgnodii and sweet dreams!   Stick around for some good eats in the next few posts!


xoxo M


Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Bonjourno!



We have just returned from a two week eating extravaganza in Northern Italy and I wanted to post a teaser for you with some photos I posted on Instagram from the trip.  Stay tuned for a fun ride...

Preparing to ski the Sella Ronda

A perfect spring ski day

Vino and prosciutto

View of the Dolomite mountain range

Eating squid ink pasta with scallop carpaccio on the slopes

This lovely city needs no introduction

xoxo M