Aspen F&W Classic: Day 2

Day 2 was off to a kick start with the dynamic Tim Love.  A native of Denton, Texas, with restaurants in Fort Worth and Houston, Tim Love is a man after my own heart...a meat and tequila guy.  At 10 am, he walked on stage with a glass of white wine (Texas wine, I hope).  He said he had been out till the wee hours the night before at Escobar and insinuated that it was a rough morning.  So, had he been dancing on the stripper pole?  Oh, right, I am supposed to talk about the class...Rub, Marinate, or Season: What is the Best?  In a nutshell, you should marinate tough, or lesser cuts of, meat because you need to break down the connective tissue.  For flank steak, he made a Korean Bulgogi using white onions, sesame seeds, garlic, chili flakes, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper, sugar, soy sauce and sesame oil.  According to Love, when you marinate, 98% of the time, you should be using white onion as "it expands your palate".

Next came the Kick Ass Rub (see recipe at end of post) that he used to season pork shoulder that had been brined in salt water overnight with tequila-soaked wood chips.  He also prepped a New York Strip with the rub, and mentioned that you should only technically rub a steak, or a meat you are going to sear/cook over a high heat, and season that which you will be cooking over a long period of time.  The difference being that by seasoning, you are letting the flavors soak into the meat, and with a rub, you are creating a coating, or a crust for the meat.  Another important note for grilling, use an oil with a high smoke point, preferably peanut oil.  You can add that EVOO when serving the meat.  Also add some flaked salt and chopped herbs.  He encouraged questions, but watch out, because you also may be pulled up on stage to down a shot of tequila with him if you are deemed too obnoxious.  He also ends the demo with a tequila drinking contest that has a twist...I won't spoil it for you.  You just have to go see him for yourself.  And once you do, you will be hooked.

I also attended America's Best Wine and Cheese Pairings with Laura Werlin and Megan Krigbaum.  Laura Werlin is the author of six books, including James Beard Award-winning The All American Cheese and Wine Book.  Megan Krigbaum is the senior wine editor at FOOD & WINE.  

From left to right, the wines included Lenz Blanc de Noir Rose, Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling, Evening Land Gamay Noir, Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir, Scribe Chardonnay, and Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel.  The wines were paired with a variety of American artisanal cheeses, and I tried to use the tips I learned the day before from the Pairing Wines with Difficult Foods class.  While there are certainly some "safe" pairings, I found the relationship between cheese and wine to be not quite as straightforward, but I will try my best to sum it up:  Pairing wines and cheeses from the same region can make interesting mixes.  Try a Sancerre with a lightly aged goat cheese from the Loire Valley, or an epoisses with a Burgundy (my favorite cheese with my favorite wine...how can you go wrong!).  In addition, an aged wine will pair better with an aged cheese, a young wine will mix well with a young cheese.  Harder cheeses, such as Parmesan or Cheddar, will pair better with more tannic wines, such as the Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir or a Cabernet Sauvignon.  Creamier cheeses, like Brie, pair well with wines displaying more acidity, such as a Chardonnay, a dry Riesling or some Roses.  A dry Rose or a Sauvignon Blanc is also a nice accompaniment to a soft, herbal goat cheese.  Lastly, there is harmony in contrasts.  Try a triple-cream Brillat-Savarin with Champagne.  Or, take the salty cheeses, like Stilton and Roquefort, for instance, and pair with a sweeter wine, such as Port or the Late Harvest Zin.  Add some candied walnuts and you will have a perfect dessert.  Buen provecho! 


Kick Ass Steak Rub

Makes 3 cups:
2 cups sweet paprika
1 T aji chile powder
3 T cracked black pepper
5 T minced dried garlic
3 T onion powder
4 T kosher salt

Mix all ingredients together.  Can be used on just about anything...steak, vegetables, shrimp, fish...just have a kick ass good time using it. 

 

Aspen Food and Wine: Day 1

What a weekend!  I loved every minute of it and am so excited to share it with you.

Techniques to Create a Great Meal with Jacques and daughter Claudine Pepin took place on Friday, June 14, 2013, at 10 am in the St. Regis Hotel.  This is Jacques's 30th year at the Food and Wine Classic, and he is still going strong.  Having published 28 cookbooks to date, Jacques and Claudine pulled recipes and techniques mainly from the latest book called New Complete Techniques.  They walked us through recipes for stuffed-boneless (whole) chicken, instant-cured salmon slices, mayonnaise, classic vinaigrette and grapefruit sliced salad.  The techniques involved reminded me of what I loved about my Intro to Culinary Arts class taught by the fabulous Chef Glenn Humphrey at the Arizona Culinary Institute.  In the state-of-the-art showcase kitchen provided by Kitchenaid, Jacques showed us how to chop and slice onions, debone a chicken (in about 2 minutes), how to clean, slice and julienne a leek, mince garlic and chop herbs. 

Waltzing on stage together

Claudine uncorked a champagne bottle with a knife (I have ruined many a knife doing this), and used some champagne to deglaze the pan of chicken drippings to make a sauce to pour over the finished poulet.  She and Jacques had fun sharing the rest.  The rapport between the two was wonderful as they cracked jokes and teased one another.  This culinary icon shared stories of Julia Child with us, posed for photos with fans, and was an absolutely gracious entertainer.  To sum it up, we were completely spoiled. 

Hard to top a photo op with an icon

Next was Mario Batali's class called Sicilian Summer Supper and included recipes for Cauliflower Griddle Cakes with Smoked Ricotta, Couscous with Clams and Fennel, and Tuna "Dice" with Mint and Peas, all cooked in 37 minutes...very impressive.  He remarked that Sicily is actually closer to Tunisia than it is to Milan, thus the presence of Arab influences in these dishes such as mint, saffron, couscous, cumin, lime and peppers.  He is a natural entertainer and amused the audience with humorous advice and a wealth of knowledge of Italy and its history.  Batali is a Seattle native who majored in Spanish, Theatre and Econ at Rutger's University.  He moved to Italy for three years in his early culinary career and used that experience to launch his cooking show, Molto Mario, on the Food Network in 1997.  Next to Julia Child's show on PBS, I think that Molto Mario was one of my earliest cooking influences.  (Aside from my mother, but that goes without saying.)  I tried to get a good pic, to no avail.  Even though I waited in line for one hour, and was therefore the fifth in line to get into the conference room, at the last minute, they filled up the first 10 rows with people with "Trade" passes, and I was stuck behind a woman with extremely big curly hair.  Asi es la vida.

Our third class of the day, Pairing the World's Most Difficult Foods, was taught by Marnie Old, sommelier, author, and former director of wine studies at the French Culinary Institute.  Intelligent and classy, Marnie showed us how to take six different wines and pair them with "difficult" food using a few universal pieces of wine and food chemistry. 

From left to right, Tattinger Champagne, Gruner Veltliner from Austria, Chenin Blanc from South Africa, Beaujolais, a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and lastly, a Moscato d'Asti from Italy.  On the plate, starting at the 12 o'clock position, lemon, honey, hoisin sauce, sriracha, salsa, asparagus-steamed and grilled, artichokes-steamed and in a dip (center).

Upon first impression, the champagne is tart and makes the mouth water, making one hungrier and thirstier.  Ever wonder why often in a restaurant you are offered a glass of champagne to begin the meal?  It stimulates your hunger and thirst.  The Gruner Veltliner is dry with a high acidity, while the Chenin Blanc is tart with a hint of sweetness.  The Beaujolais is spicy, fruity and sappy.  The Cabernet smells like stewed fruit and tastes of cocoa, licorice and cherry.  The Moscato is almost candy sweet.

Classic wines are designed to have great synergy with the food with which it is served.  To boil it down to the most simple terms, savory and salty food goes well with dry wines, such as the Gruner Veltliner.  Referring to her posters, salt is dry wine's best friend.  Conversely, sugar is dry wine's worst enemy.  Pair the sweet with sweet, the tart with tart, and the dry with dry.  To quote Marnie, "the degree of sweetness in food needs to be matched with the sweetness in the wine for a happy marriage."  I love how she kept it simple.  Match like with like, essentially.  And don't forget, fat and high alcohol content are friends.  With a big California Cab, serve with animal fat...a big steak and butter rich cheeses.  I guess that would make Cabs off-limits for vegans.  More for us meat eaters.  Two of the most difficult foods, by nature,  are asparagus and artichokes.  Steamed asparagus will pair poorly with wines that have a hint of sweetness...it is better with dryer wines.  How to change the results?  Add a little fat (oil) to the asparagus and grill it.  Artichokes contain a natural compound called cyanine that interferes with red wine.  The Cab is just awful with steamed artichokes...works a little better with the Beaujolais.  But pair the Cab with artichoke dip, and the cheese adds salt and fat, opening that door to the happy marriage.  What to do with spicy food?  High alcohol content will amplify the heat.  Lower alcohol and sweetness will keep the flames in check.  Asian sauces, like the sweet hoisin, will not work with dry wines.  But pair with the Chenin Blanc, and it is delightful.  When in doubt, and if this all confuses you more?  Per Marnie, drink champagne.  It goes with everything.  Either way, bottoms up! 

Big sis' chatting with Marnie

Prelude to the Food & Wine Classic

I cannot believe it is finally here!  We registered today for what will surely be a fun-filled 3 days of culinary madness (my sister is holding my other 8 shopping bags, but don't tell the Hubby).  
Upon our arrival last night, we headed to Jimmy's on Mill Street, a local favorite.  Recognized in 2012 as one of the Top 50 bars in the nation by Food & Wine, Jimmy's has over 120 tequilas and mezcals from which to choose, plus an extensive cocktail and spirits menu.  The food was outstanding, and very colorful.  Now I just have to convince the ladies to return Saturday night for some salsa dancing.

Yellow heirloom tomato gazpacho

Salmon with basil glaze, quinoa, artichokes and cucumber salad

Prickly pear sorbet

  

We also had to swing by Ajax Tavern for some truffle fries and our first glimpse of Mario Batali, who is often seen eating here during the F&W Classic.
 

At the base of Ajax Mountain with big sis'

Truffle fries and rose, a great summer combo

Crisp asparagus salad at Ajax Tavern

One of my favorite shopping stops was at Amen Wardy to see his beautiful tablescapes.  Check out these beaded place mats and the Indo-China inspired place setting below...love, love, love.

Off to get a good night's sleep...class with Jacques Pepin at 10 am.  Sweet dreams!

Dear, Dear Santa Fe

We had the opportunity to take a 36 hour jaunt to Santa Fe, New Mexico, over Memorial Day weekend.  The initial purpose of the trip was to see Lyle Lovett and Robert Earl Keen in concert together at the Santa Fe Opera, but we managed to get a couple of great meals in as well.  But what was our first stop the minute we walked off the plane?  To the Pink Adobe for a prickly pear margarita?  No, that would have to wait un momentito.  Green chili pork stew with sopapillas?  No again...Back at the Ranch for some cowboy boots.

The store front of Back at the Ranch

With custom-made boots in every shape, size, leather and exotic skin, Back at the Ranch is bound to have what you are looking for.  And if they don't, they will make it for you.

Boots for the gents

Boots for the ladies

Boots for the scorpion-lover in you

Just in case you forgot where you were

I picked out a great pair of Cordovan leather boots that go up almost to my knee, reminding me of my English riding boots.  In this case, the term Cordovan refers to the shade of burgundy (not equine leather, at least I hope) and takes its name from Cordoba, Spain, where leather making was practiced by the Visigoths in the 7th century.  I will get a photo of them, but they are packed for my trip to the Aspen Food and Wine Classic this weekend.  I digress...so I paired them with my mother's Zuni fetish necklace, and off we were to Geronimo Restaurant on lovely Canyon Road.

Zuni fetish necklace

In its 22 year history, Geronimo has established itself as the fine dining restaurant in Santa Fe.  It is housed in a 250 year old adobe building that was built by hacendado Geronimo Lopez for his family of 13, and features large overhead beams, creamy stucco walls throughout, and a Kiva (bee hive) fireplace below a massive set of moose antlers.  The atmosphere is warm and inviting, and we were more than happy to settle in for an evening of fine wines and food.  I ordered one of their signature cocktails, a Pear Royale, vanilla poached pears in sparkling wine, while contemplating the menu.  I was tempted to try the vegetarian tasting menu because it just looked so good, but opted for the complete opposite: steak frites served over Swiss chard with four dipping sauces: hot and spicy hollandaise, au poivre, horseradish, and carmelized onion. 

The dipping sauces had me at hello

The next morning a hike up Tesuque Peak was a must to get ready for a long day of eating and tailgating.  The concierge at the Inn of the Anasazi encouraged us to try this 12 mile (roundtrip) moderate hike to the 12,047 foot peak.  At the summit, you will find yourself at the Santa Fe ski area overlooking a gorgeous view of Santa Fe and the valley below.  

The trail was clear of snow on this great day, so we made good time in just under 4 hours.  But we were famished.  We had been looking forward to eating at The Shed, but it was closed on Sunday.  Meanwhile, some friends had spotted Lyle at the Lucchese store in the main square stating that he was going to meet his good friend, Robert, at Pascual's.  But the crowds at this James Beard award-winning cafe were too much for us to bear, so opted to take a 30 minute drive to the Rancho de Chimayo for some heavenly sopapillas and platos mexicanos.

Finger-licking sopapillas

The plates are served with an option of red or green sauce, but I wanted both

Display of historic Indian pottery at the Rancho

I have some boots on here, but these are from Littles in San Antonio

I had to get my prickly pear margarita fix, but time was running out!  So we dashed to the Pink Adobe and Dragon Room Bar before the show.

Por fin

Tail gate party at the Santa Fe Opera

The acoustic show was outstanding.  They each took turns with a song: She's No Lady (She's My Wife), It's the Little Things, If I Had a Boat, Gringo Honeymoon, Nobody Knows Me, Christmas Song...you get the drift.  They were room mates in college at Texas A&M and told great stories about themselves between songs.   Could you imagine hanging around that house in college?    

When I leave a place, I always think about the things to do upon the return trip.  I like to think that for every goodbye there will be a hello.  As we visited the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum on this trip, my wish on the next trip would be to drive out to her home at Ghost Ranch to see the actual landscapes she painted. 

I am off to the Aspen Food and Wine Classic today.  Stay  tuned, dear readers, for some great posts on the classes I will be attending...Jacques Pepin, Mario Batali, and more!  Stay tuned and hasta pronto!

New York Minute

I recently took my son to NYC to visit his godmother (lil' sis came too), and one thing I really enjoyed was seeing the city from a child's perspective.  We've learned that when traveling with kids, what works for us is to try to do only one big thing a day.  Since my son was reading Hugo, I thought it would be fun for them to see Grand Central Terminal, so I booked a 75 minute-long tour on a Saturday.

Originally conceived and built in 1871 by Cornelius Vanderbilt, the building went through a couple of different iterations before being torn down, in phases, and completely rebuilt and reopened in 1913.  Celebrating its 100th anniversary, it is said to be the sixth top tourist attraction in the world according to Travel + Leisure.

The ceiling design of the constellations was created by a Frenchman, Paul Cesar Helleu.  It wasn't until after completion that a workman pointed out that it was actually backwards.  That's alright, the Vanderbilt family declared, because it is a view of the sky from the perspective of God looking down onto Earth.  A couple of fun things to look for in the ceiling: there is a small hole that was left from a 1957 display of an American Redstone missile.  Also, above the Michael Jordan Steakhouse, you will see a small, dark rectangular patch that is in its original condition to remind all of the dirt and filth that covered everything prior to the twelve year restoration by Beyer Blinder Belle Architects of the terminal from 1987-99.

It took a year to restore the gold-plated light fixtures

Also in the restoration, the architect found plans for matching staircases, said to be modeled after the stairs of the Paris Opera.  Symmetrical, they were built almost 100 years after the original construction of the terminal.  The kids recognized them from the "Madagascar" movie.

Restored and renovated in 1999, the Campbell Apartment is a cocktail lounge and bar.  In the 20'3 and 30's, it was the office of John W. Campbell, who served on New York Central's Board of Directors.  The office was known to have, at the time, the largest Persian rug in possession (wouldn't you love to see that!).  It was said to have cost $300,000 back then, or approximately $3.5 million today.

One thing we did not see, but being an avid tennis player, might be on my bucket list: the Vanderbilt Tennis Club, located above Vanderbilt Hall.  It is the old CBS broadcasting station.  It costs $225 to play, but what a view!

The food court of the terminal is a great place to stop for a bite to eat with kids...quick and easy.  Adorned with wooden benches from the original waiting room of the terminal, you can find about 35 options for food, with the Shake Shake set to open in fall of 2013.  My son ate a NY hotdog and a Parisian crepe served to him by an Ecuadorian.  My daughter opted for some Two Boots Pizza, known for their delicious cornmeal crust.  And what did I have?  Texas chili from the Manhattan Chili Company.  Claiming they are the world's first all-natural chili bar, they have over 10 chilis from which to choose, vegetarian to turkey to meat made with Niman Ranch beef.  My only "beef" with them is that I tried to tell the server that true Texas chili does not have beans in it...especially not kidney beans!  I realize some may say this statement is debatable, but my mother drilled it into me from the day I was born, so it must be true if Frances says so.  Anyways, he brushed me off, and in the end I didn't really mind too much.  Served with corn bread and flavored with chipotle chiles, kidney beans and all, it was actually quite tasty (and thankfully spicy).

The chili bar at Manhattan Chili Co

For dessert, Magnolia Bakery is a must

I'm gonna say it...better than Sprinkles

Also pop into Grand Central Market for un petit peu du fromage...

...or some flowers

Our Sunday activity included a trip to the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see the Egypt wing.  While we were there, I had to pop in to see two exhibits: Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity (very child-appropriate) and Punk: Chaos to Couture (not child-appropriate at all...I wish someone had told me beforehand about the mannequin flipping you off...that was a tough one to explain to two kids under 9).  I managed to snap a couple pics before I was caught...

Many of the works of art are from the Musee d'Orsday

Right next to the Impressionism exhibit was Punk: Chaos to Couture

I remember when Elizabeth Hurley wore this to the premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral

Back in AZ, with temperatures of 105-110 all week, I will end on a photo I snapped of a Mint Julep from the NoMad bar.  Cool and refreshing, it reminds me of my father's Mississippi roots, y'all.